Kahurangi Nat. Park (1)

Trip report by those below

Trip dated: Dec '98 - Jan'99

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A committee effort by Bill, Ivan, Judy, Chris and Kjell - all care taken in writing. No responsibility for incorrect facts, spelling and bad jokes.

Day One - Sunday 27 December 1998. Local transport took us up the Cobb Valley to Trilobite Hut at 5.00 PM. After hiding our food cache box we wandered up the valley, past Chaffey Hut, and camped by the stream.

Day Two - we strolled up the valley to Cobb Hut and on to Fenella Hut for lunch. A side trip up Waingaro Peak (1604 metres) gave us views of the Dragons Teeth, Lake Cobb and Mount Gibbs where we were headed the following day. Ivan - "Look, look, a kiwi." "Sorry, it is a weka!"
Day Three - following the poled route over Mount Gibb to the ridge overlooking Round Lake. Our first encounter with a kea that squawked at us from above but was not too interested in having a closer inspection. We followed the ridgeline to come to the impressive Island Lake. The direct route down the ridge looked tempting, but it was too steep and would have involved major bush crashing. We skirted around the lake, which was slow progress past the vicious Spaniard grass. Nobody expects a Spanish inquisition and it took us the rest of the day to skirt the lake to our campsite.

Following the stream down from Island Lake was reasonable going following deer tracks, despite having to negotiate three waterfalls 24, 8 and 30 metres high to reach the Roaring Lion confluence. New Year's Eve was spent crossing the river, boulder hopping and following the riverbank - a pleasant stroll. After lunch we met nine members of the Waikato Tramping Club, just past Breakfast Creek, who had come up the river from the Roaring Lion Hut the previous day.
New Year's Day we continued down the river. The travel  was easy until we got to the Cub Stream where we had to continuously divert high above the stream to avoid the gorges. Further down we met two trout fishermen from Alaska and South Africa who said they had had reasonable success. They said it was another three hours to the hut so we decided to call it a day. We saw a pair of blue ducks but they were a bit timid and we could not get close enough for a decent photograph.

Our seventh day saw us reach the Roaring Lion Hut for lunch after much scrambling interspersed with travel through wide and flat valleys. The seven kilometres to the Karamea Bend Hut should have been an easy stroll to finish the day but one can never plan too far ahead. The floods in early December had changed the river flow and left a lot of tree debris, which made progress exceedingly slow. We finally got to the hut at l0.00 PM, had a quick dinner and welcome bed.

A sleep in the next morning and we were all a bit slow. We headed to Leslie Hut for lunch and a siesta. Dave Lee, an ACTC member from the 1970s, visited us. After filling him in with the details of the last thirty years we went on to Slugeons Rock Shelter. One wall was a canopy, which we rolled up to take in the magnificent views of Mount Peel (l 654 metres) and the Tablelands.

Next day we climbed up to the Tablelands and on to the new Balloon Hut which did Prime Minister Jim Bolger open in February 1996. Emptying packs, Kjell, Ivan and Chris headed past Lake Peel to the Cobb Reservoir and the food cache at Trilobite Hut. Once we transferred the food to our packs we headed back up the track for a welcome swim at Lake Peel and back to Balloon Hut. Bill and Judy took a side trip where they met Bob, Ruth, Mike, Liz, Sarah and Darryl. This group joined us later back at the Balloon Hut.

Day ten was an easy day for Ivan and Chris tired from the previous day's efforts. They stayed at the hut while Bill, Judy, Kjell and Sarah climbed Mount Peel. When they arrived back, we tramped to the Salisbury Lodge, which took all of one hour. We met an interesting assortment of people at the hut - ask Judy. Next morning we set off for the Mount Arthur Hut and met the other group of nine, who had come into the Tablelands the previous day. They told us their tales of the adventures on the Heaphy and Wangapeka Tracks. After reaching the Flora Hut we had lunch and had a siesta. Late afternoon in the cooler weather Bill headed up the direct route to Mount Arthur Hut while the rest of us took the longer, easier route. Kjell and Chris detoured to the Flora Saddle car park to get a sniff of civilisation. They must not have liked what they saw because they came back in and joined the others at the hut.

Day twelve we set out to climb Mount Arthur but, after twelve calm and clear days, incredibly strong winds stuck us, which forced us to turn back. We retreated to the Flora Hut and met Scottish lass Morag, who we had originally seen at the Balloon Hut. We all climbed Mount Lodestone (1450 metres) instead of Mount Arthur and got great views of Motueka and Takaka. Camping at Flora Hut we were entertained by two wekas who kept entering the hut but opted for the comfort of Kjell's tent.
Our last day saw us backtracking to the Asbestos Cottage via the Broken River. Ivan would not cross the Broken Bridge once he saw the sign, opting to cross the hazardous stream. At the cottage for lunch, Brian Alexander and Liz Daley from Auckland Tramping Club, who brought Bob and Ruth with them, joined us. Asbestos Cottage was the home of Henri and Annie Chaffey who lived there for 37 years, prospecting and managing the Asbestos Mine. Finally out at 3.00 PM to wait for our shuttle to take us back to civilisation.

We had the company of a wonderful variety of birds- the robins that joined us at each campsite and meal stop, so friendly and unafraid; the riflemen, always so busy and happy; the bellbirds with their glorious songs and that fabulous encounter with the kea at Mount Arthur Hut. Thanks to all who made it an interesting, exciting and enjoyable trip. We all became better 500 players, bush gourmet cooks (pancakes, falafels, cheesecakes etc.) and got great suntans.

The end of the journey will be to arrive at the place from where you started, and see it for the first time.

T S Eliot Little Giddings - an ode to when we were wandering around in circles.

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